Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)


Textiles, Apparel and Merchandising Design

Document Type



The purpose of this study is to explore the application of a pre-existing apparel design process model and design framework to the development of a conceptual slow fashion apparel design process and framework. A content analysis of slow design and slow fashion literature identified 38 themes related to specific design criteria, which were applied to design considerations from the Lamb & Kallal Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic (FEA) model (1992). Additional design considerations were revealed due to the nature of the research topic and relationship to the stages in the applied design framework. For the Slow Fashion Apparel Design model five considerations were established: functional, expressive, aesthetic, designer, and other. The Slow Fashion Apparel Design Framework established six considerations associated with six stages of the apparel design process framework: material, quality, production, design, evaluation, and implementation. Design criteria were placed into each consideration category according to design theory and Lamb & Kallal’s model and framework. A sample of 71 textiles, apparel design, and merchandising professionals with membership in the International Textiles and Apparel Association completed a survey regarding the application of the design criteria found in the content analysis to the design considerations established using the FEA model. Apparel design participants from the sample who volunteered for a follow-up survey were interviewed regarding creative scholarship and apparel design processes. Analysis of survey and interview results revealed a differentiation in the application of design criteria within the design considerations established for the design process model and design framework. These differentiations were divided into required, highly recommended, and recommended design criteria. The Slow Fashion Apparel Design Process model had 17 design criteria across five considerations distributed into the three levels of importance. The Slow Fashion Apparel Design Framework had 14 design criteria across four considerations distributed into only required and recommended differentiations. It was revealed that evaluation and implementation consideration categories were not included in the design criteria within the Slow Fashion Apparel Design Framework. Further study is needed to seek explanations for this occurrence. Future research will include the application of this conceptual model to develop of a slow fashion apparel collection.



Document Availability at the Time of Submission

Release the entire work immediately for access worldwide.

Committee Chair

Kuttruff, Jenna